Repair Help

My dishwasher overflows after about 5 minutes of running. Not sure where to go at this point after everything i’ve tried to fix it so far.

-The freezer temp seems to be about on point but the fresh food is displaying 24 and when i put my thermal gun in their it was pretty low around 15 on the walls
-I tested the upper damper and it seems to be opening and closing fine (I did not crack the fridge open to see it but put my hand over it to feel and heard it open and close from diagnostic manuals forced damper test mode)
-Checked on the lower damper near the express meat thaw drawer its closed and fan is not turned on
-Tested all the sensors with the old main board installed and the new board i had on me all sensors read “P” which means PASSED test.
-Ran every single test mode everything seemed to check out fine
-Did the forced electronic reset in the test modes, And unplugged for 5 minutes, Nothing changed.

….Running out of ideas. Its either the upper damper not fully closing, lower damper or something else maybe display panel? unlikely its the display but IDK..??
Please give me an input you guys have more experience im sure i already have all the diagnostic manuals..

My Whirlpool washer is a top loaded with no agitator and is about 5 years old. Lately we’ve noticed that the clothes are left very wet. The washer drains and spins. I was able to get a code from the diagnostic of F7 E1 which apparently means almost everything LOL. When I do the tachometer test, the basket spins freely without any noise (like bad bearings) and the lights on the washer move with the speed of me turning the basket. I ran a calibration test and heard the washer spinning smoothly at one point, but I eventually had to stop the calibration because after a while it was violently shaking.

Replacing the machine’s actuator/shifter, capacitor or suspension springs doesn’t seem to be a major task. But I don’t what to do next to determine the actual cause. I’d hate to spend more money on parts than I need to.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Matt

Maytag MEDC300XWO, the customer says that the dryer will run, but cut off half way thru the cycle. I found the duct to have some trash(lent) in it. The customer ran it with out the vent hooked up and still cut off. Replaced the timer about 6 months ago. Any suggestions on what to look for? Thanks Chip

The back of the fresh food section is covered in frost and the evaporator coils are ice up. From inspecting the unit and looking at the parts diagram it does not appear that there is a defrost heater in this model for the fresh food evaporator coils. The ice has built up to the point that the unit is not cooling properly and airflow to the icemaker is restricted so it is not making ice.

THIS CORSAIR CONDENSING UNIT KEEPS RANDOMLY SHUTTING OFF. IT WILL WORK FOR A FEW HOURS THEN IT WILL SHUT OFF AND WONT TURN ON AGAIN.

The unit is shutting down and turning back on and then it displays a PO error code. It appears to either be the power control board or the main control board. Can you please give some insight on this.

The freezer section is frozen solid. I am letting it thaw over the weekend because I can’t get it apart. I’m looking at some drawing, and all I see is the evaporator with all the part included. Can I not get these parts separately, or do I have to change the entire evaporator?

This Ice Maker is in the freezer door itself. How do I remove it?

This unit is not defrosting, causing the evaporator to ice over. I have ohmed the defrost bimetal and the defrost heater and they are both within spec. I’m not sure how to force this unit into defrost or which board controls the defrost.

Not defrosting, checked bimetal and heater and they are good. Unit has a board at the back and board at the control. Which board should I replace for defrost?

I know this is a long shot, but I have a customer that says the washer makes a slight squeaking noise at the start of the spin cycle and the end of the spin cycle. I have been there 2 times and have yet to heat this squeak. I really don’t know where to start, other than rotor / stator. Tub supports are lubed. Please if you have any suggestions pass them on. I am going back out tomorrow for the 3rd time.

We need a tech sheet and wiring diagram for tis range. It is electric with double oven.
Thank you.

This combo unit has banging/grinding sound during spin cycle besides the drive pulley what else should I look for? Is there any videos of repairs similar on this type of unit that had this problem?

During the rinse & spin cycle the agitator spins wildly and makes an insanely loud screeching/grinding sound while whipping the clothes so hard and fast they stretch and if caught right, will rip. If I cancel the cycle and select “rinse and spin” it will rinse the clothes, but then during the spin cycle the malfunction will occur again. I then tried a “drain and spin” cycle which seemed to operate normally.

I need to diagnose the issue and identify the right part to replace.

Thank you in advance for your help!

I have videos if you need them.

This is a Maytag Bravos MCT

Technician checked water valve good all door switches fine .Pushed the pad no voltage comes the water valve.
what could be the problem if you have the schematic will help also?

Temperature in FF section is to warm, customer sets it on 38 degrees and it is 56 degrees. What should I look for?

gtw3300ask0ww Cold water was slowly running in in washer was not in use(trash in line), then one day customer find washer had been running water in for a long time(5hrs). Now water doesn’t run in , but washer only washes on a mini cycle

board, heater and defrost thermostat have been replaced. How do you check the defrost thermstat and the easiest way to replace it?

Fresh food side is not cooling well, it’s around 54 degrees. Freezer is ok. Put it to forced cooling and can see fan moving. Could it be board or sensor? How do I make sure? I need all the tips on how to find out or troubleshoot it. Thanks.

sometimes washer completes entire cycle normally. Other times it starts, tumbles 1 rotation and stops, then shuts off. Other times it goes through the wash cycle but when it comes to spin, it just keeps tumbling clothes back and forth while drain pump runs and never gets to spin speed. When it does this the estimated time remaining clock will stay on the same time for maybe 10 minutes before going down by a minute then it will take another 10 minutes to go down another minute. it will eventually shut off without spinning so clothes are still wet. We have run the diagnostic tests and all functions work normally. Also washer does not give any error codes when it does this.
We appreciate any advise.
Thank you.

How do you enter into defrost mode

Why won’t the service mode work? Is there a “trick” to it? Could a thermister cause this? If so which one and where is it located.

Any ideas? I watched the videos on the service mode and seems I am doing it correct.

Code11 shows up, which is the MCU. How can I check to make sure that is what is wrong. Kenmoe Elite HE4T

Customer complaining that they smell a burning smell. I ran it through a cycle and of course it worked great. They say that it pauses in the middle of cycle(mid 20s on dail) and it flashes pause, and they restart the washer. What should I look for. Thanks Chip

Freezer door won’t stay closed, gasket looks to be in good shape. When I got there I found the draw in the bottom of freezer compartment was sticking out in the way of the door. Fixed the draw where it was out of the way from the door from closing, but the door still wants to not seal tightly.