The dishwasher stopped cleaning. I determined it was not filling with water. I found the screen on the inlet valve was plugged. I removed it and cleaned it out. It now fills with water but when it gets to what would be the wash cycle it just sits for a few minutes and then goes to the drain cycle. I have unhooked the power to reset it and still has the same problem. I also added more water to it to make sure it wasn’t a water level issue and it still will not go to the wash cycle.
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
Hello, the dishwasher is leaking during cycle on the bottom left side of door, there is a small black plastic flap? About 6 inches in length is the location where it drips from.
I don’t know if the leak is relative, but my dishes aren’t drying either, there is still water on dishes and such after the “Quick and Dry” cycle has completed???
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
The display is blank and won’t respond to commands
Voltage is good.
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
hi we check a sxs samsung refrigerator costumer complaint the seccion of vegytable is frozen all the food milk and egg costumer says somentime work normaly and somentime frozzen againg and says sometime make loud noise on back of refrigerator
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
Basically what refrigerator was doing was I would hear a click, loud buzz for 3 seconds, then another click. 2 minutes later, same thing…. and it would repeat this over and over.
I took the backing off the refrigerator and the compressor is really really hot to touch. At this point, the compressor is not running but the fans are still running, so it quickly heats up the air in unit.
So I thought it was the relay (thing attached to side of compressor), but here’s the thing…
I left the unit off all night… of course the compressor wasn’t warm anymore… I plugged it in and I heard the click and compressor started. It ran for over an hour straight without a problem and cooled the temperature to 0.
Then it shut off normally b/c air was at 0 degrees inside it. I felt the compressor throughout the hour and it slowly kept heating up and heating up to the point where it would probably burn if you left your hand on it…but obviously not hot enough for the heat relay (don’t know the name) to engage and shut it off.
Then about 20 minutes later, it tried to start… I heard the click, long buzz, click and then the fans started but not the compressor…
SO….. is my compressor bad b/c it’s hot to the touch or is it still my relay thingy. it looks like it’s a 2 pronged unit that plugs into the prongs on the compressor but it is SUCH a tight fit on the left side of the refrigerator it’s going to be a bear to take out of there. there is a copper tubing right in the way too.
Any help would be appreciated.
The refrigerator is 18 years old but if it’s just a relay…..I might just fix it, but if it’s the compressor, I might as well get a new refrigerator
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
Unit has no power. What do I look for and if it is the timer how do I test the timer.
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
SAMSUNG FAMILY HUB . this is the first time i come across this fancy fridges.customer complains that fridge is cold but freezer is not working I looked at it and there is no frost or any indication of cold . seems like compressor inn not supplying gas to freezer side .what do you think I should do and where to look for problem ? thanks
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
installed main control board #W10890094 and went to follow steps to reprogram with code inside of door and the display lights are just flashing and will not let me enter Programming mode, there is no numbers displaying just light flashing of lights. With my old board you can see the numbers bright like always no flashing
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
we need a video on how to dismantle the dryer
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
So I have this LG French door refrigerator. After a filter change it stopped getting cold enough to freeze and the refrigerator isn’t getting as cold as it’s set to. The freezer is getting to 48 degrees, the refrigerator is getting to pretty much the same, so something is working.
Take the lower cover off and clean up the coils and fan. I bumped the drain tube and it started spewing water out of the top. Let it finish draining, took the tube off and found a glob of something in there, so it was likely blocked (it was building up ice on the inside of the freezer that would have to be cleaned out from time to time). Hoped that would be the extent of things. Ran for about a day with no change.
Took the electronics cover off, the boards looked good as in no burnt stuff, fuses intact. Ran the first stage of the diagnostics and the display lit up everything. Fan running, I believe the compressor was running. Hard to tell with these linear condensers. It had a slight vibration to it. Second stage of the diagnostics, gave a 22 code on the front. Went to stage 3, fan and I’m guessing the compressor shut off like it was supposed to. Great. Reset everything and it comes back to life, fan running and slight vibration to the compressor. I will note the compressor did get warmer and i could feel a bit of cold in the copper.
After looking up the code and doing some research I’m thinking ok this is cake. So I take the lower panel back off and go to look at what I’m dealing with before I buy parts. well this model does NOT have a compressor relay. It’s got a compressor wire harness. @#%$@@%#$%^%
How do I fix an error 22 on this? or is the compressor junk?
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
I replaced my control board 3 weeks ago, due to the buttons acting wonky like switching to CLEAN from WASH when pushing start or changing spin speed when changing the temp. After replacing, the buttons worked great, but the washer would run a cycle. It would fill some water, then the tumbler would swing one way a little bit and then the other way a little bit. Then it would stop and unlock. If you hit start again, it would start the process again and stop again. I ordered it off Ebay and thought maybe the new board was defective, so I removed and installed the old one again. Buttons still wonky, but once they stayed on WASH, the washer actually ran the complete cycle. Returned that board and ordered another one from a different source and installed it yesterday. Same result as the 1st time. I need to know why the old one will run a cycle, but the new one stops. I was able to pull a E39 code from the new board. Once again, since I had clothes that needed to be cleaned, I reinstalled the old one just so I could wash a load of clothes. I still have the new board here though. Just doesn’t make any sense to me!! Please help! The control board that I have is WH12X10468.
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
I need the tech sheet so I can do diagnostics.
What is the most likely reason for this model to stop producing ice
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
My customer has a Jenn Air Refrigerator that we already have done several things to to try and stop this drawer from getting too cold.
- mastertechca asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
The brand is an Electrolux/Frigidaire. I have diagnosed unit as having a bad condenser fan and fan motor. Most units i have worked on have the condenser fan and motor to the left or right of the condenser. This unit is called a Professional series. The condenser fan and motor are located behind the condenser if viewing from the rear of the unit. I am stumped as to how to remove the condenser fan and fan motor. HELP
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
The washer will try to shift to agitate but seems to get stuck.
It will not let me enter diagnostics so I can check the error code. What is the trick?
Is this the actuator or the motor?
Does this motor have a built in clutch or can it be charged? This is a Frigidaire
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
I changed the infinite switch and it did the same thing.
If I begin on low it will heat and cut off but will not come back on even after 10 minutes. If I turn it off and then back on it repeats the same cycle. It will stay on high. If I set it on 3 or 4 it does the same.
Can this be the sensor in the burner?
How does it work?
It doesn’t matter if I use the single or dual settings.
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
Not spinning fast enough at full speed on spin cycle, seems to drain fine, clothes come out soaking wet
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
wash pump starts and stops and runs for varying periods of time from several seconds to a minute or so and stops and is noisey.
also no wash action from upper wash arm.
- Guest asked 4 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
We had a power outage last night during a thunderstorm and this morning the interior lights work, but that is the only function working. The “cubed ice” icon is blinking. The compressor is not running, nor is the condenser fan. I have my digital multimeter out and am wondering what the ranges would be for the output of the transformer which seems to supply the control board. What is more likely- a fried transformer from a power surge or fried control board from a power surge?
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
Samsung French Door Unit:
M# RFG297HDRS
S# 176843AD800130P
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 4 years ago
Have 14 vdc at user interface
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
I have a Family Hub 5 Software update window on my Hub. I am unable to scroll through the message and I am unable to click the Ok or Cancel buttons. I have tried powering off the hub and killing power to the fridge and after each reboot the screen comes back and I can not do anything with it.
I have a screen shot if that would help.
Can I get instructions on how to get into diagnostic mode?
Is there a way to roll back the update process?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
The customer showed me a video that sounded like the pump running with the door open. She said that it shows an error code often of 10 and last time it showed 30.
Where is the tech sheet hidden? I couldn’t find it behind the door panel or behind the toe plate.
I need a copy of it and the error codes and videos.
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
No Cool. Both the refrigerator and freezer. I have heard the compressor kick on. no error codes, temp on door says what it should be, not what it is.
what else do I need to trouble shoot?
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
Lihgts are constantly in pause , I tested the lid switch and it’s ok , I need to enter the diagnostic mode .
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
All the dryer does is flash pause. It won’t even let me cancel. Therefore I can’t retrieve errors or run the service mode. The door switch tests good.
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
Washer initially presented water valve error so I replaced the water valve. Now it will fill but will not begin the cycle and does not present any error code.
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
I have a great deal of difficulty removing stripped out baked in screws. With bbq’s we always use hand tools and rarely use machine screw drivers. I cannot get 90% of the screws out if they are located on the collector box inside the fire pit. I need to know. how to get them out. I have tried everything including vice grips and rubber glove technique and soaking with WD 40. In many cases there is not even enough room to get a vice grip in there. Should I just get a small angle grinder and cut these screws out? Is that a normal pracitice? Please help. Thanks
Peter Cooke
Sparkle Grill of Long Island
grillhampton.com
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
All the dryer does is flash pause. It won’t even let me cancel. Therefore I can’t retrieve errors or run the service mode. The door switch tests good.
Can a bad door switch or thermal cut off or another bad part forbid me to extract the codes or even enter diagnostics?
- Guest asked 5 years ago
- last active 5 years ago
