Repair Help

I need a tech sheet/diagram for this. Unit has no display, only thing working is top burners.

I need a tech sheet and service manual. There is no power to the pump.

GE Monogram. Three of the four burners on the left are leaking gas. I cannot find the exact leak. I saw a couple of your videos, one in particular said the leak can come from the burner tube assembly. Although I have not come across this it seems possible. Is there a known issue with this monogram leaking gas? Its strange to me that so many burners are lighting up the leak detector. Do you suggest replacing the gas valves first.

I have replaced the display panel already and the problem is persisting.
The digital user interface is inoperable. The light and temperature setting cannot be adjusted, also cannot dispense water or ice. Have replaced user interface and it worked for a week and then did the same thing and stopped working. If you unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in it works for 5 minutes then stops being responsive. The temperature is fine in the refrigerator and freezer. Would this be the main control board for the unit?

We replaced a compressor in the refrigerator that wasn’t cooling at all. The freezer now is getting to -10 but the refrigerator wont get below 45. We replaced the evap fan motor, control board, and both dampers. checked all vents to look for obstructions found nothing. There seems to be no airflow into the refer from the freezer once the freezer door is closed but once it opens then it seems like it gets a lot more airflow. Is there any common airflow issue or any solution we haven’t addressed yet? Please advise

I bought a brand new in the box dishwasher that was 2 years old. I plugged it in and it didn’t clean very well. I tried all of the cycles and still not clean well. I checked the water input to the water inlet valve and it was strong. I then pulled the hose from the water inlet valve to the inlet assembly and it seemed strong. I did notice that when I run a cycle the arms never move. There does seem to be water in the dishwasher and it drains just fine. I tried adding a couple of quarts of water to the bottom of the dishwasher to see if not enough water and still the arms didn’t seem to spin. I bought your video on diagnostic modes and when I run it I received the following codes before the test happens. If it were new from the store I could ask whirlpool but since I bought it second hand, even if it was new in box, I can’t,

F4 E3
F4 E3
F6 E4
F- E-
F- E-

The icemaker is not making ice. I have entered diagnostics mode and run test 99 and it successfully ejects ice from the tray and refills it but it does not do this on its own. When running test 00 (read codes) I also get an error 5 (Deli Pan Thermistor Invalid) and error 10 (FZ Icemaker Mold Body Thermistor (MB) Invalid) instantly after clearing the codes and rebooting (one instance zero days ago). I do not have a separate deli tray so that may be bug in the diagnostics software. When I run test 36 to check the temperature of the Icemaker Mold Body it says 31-32 degrees but the manuals state that this temperature must be below 15 or 16 degrees for it to initiate an ice making cycle. Do I need to replace the Mold Body thermistor?

My WF448AAW/XAA clothes washer first showed a problem when trying to start a wash cycle. The washer display would indicate the selected cycle and wash time but would not add water. After turning off/on a couple times The cycle added water but would stop at the first drain cycle and give an error indicating it wasn’t draining. I unplugged for approx 1 minute the tried again. Did that twice but got same result. Because of the erratic response My gut was telling the PCB was not working properly. I downloaded a service manual to troubleshoot and it pointed to the drain pump.
I found your site and a great video on replacing the drain pump so I ordered and replaced the pump. Still not working. The first attempt after replacing pump showed a drain error again. Please advise on “hidden codes” or other direction to effectively troubleshoot and correct this problem. I don’t want to got to the expense of replacing the PCB if it’s just a sensor issue.
I have an industrial instrumentation background so have experience with advanced troubleshooting.

Software rewrite keeps showing Up date failed, on the manual mode it doesn’t show compressor info as FLSO75LANA.

Upon arrival the freezer was 5F and the fresh food (ff) section was 60F. Both condenser and evap fans were running. The freezer section had frost and snow on the ceiling and walls near the door. Inside the ff section the diffuser was iced over and there was moderate condensation on the ceiling, side walls and around the diffuser. The diffuser is manually adjusted and was broken (customer tried to adjust while it was frozen over). Also, both doors passed the dollar bill test for tightness.

where on the motor does the hall sensor get mounted

Is this caused by the board or motor.
It only does it several times a day and the rest of the time it’s ok.
The part number is WR60X1085
is there a way to check it?
IT IS A GE.

1)Customer call :refrigerator compressor wont stay on.
tech inspected the unit ,the compressor has power but quick on and about 3 second and shut off.tech decided to replace the entire compressor assembly.
Unit works for a 9 days and starts giving problem again show temperature freezer 22f and refrigerator 46 F.
unplugged it for 30 minute it works ok temperature 0 and 37
2)customer call back for the same problem after a week.
tech decided to replace the CONDENSER REPL. ASM WR84X10048 and REFRIGERATOR SUCTION TUBE CAP WR86X10021
the problem still not solve
do you have any idea what is going on ?

Snow-like frost build up on evaporator cover. Will take cover off and defrost, then two days later it is built back up again. It is not a frost pattern concurrent with the fridge being low on freon.

Replaced icemaker, still no ice. 120 volts going to the icemaker

Ice maker is making very little ice. On/off arm is moving slightly up & down and making a noise from the movement. Really irritating!

The water valves have been changed. Water pressure is good. The icemaker fill test #25 passed and the icemaker filled but will not on its own.
I noticed that the right hand refrigerator French door pops open when they shut the left hand door. Could this cause the ice room to be too warm and not make ice?
What else can cause this issue?
What else can I check?
How do I adjust the French doors to solve the problem of the door always coming ajar?
THIS IS A WHIRLPOOL REFRIGERATOR

My lg refrigerator is not cooling nor freezing. I already check the deforst heater and the ohms are correct for both the freezer and the fresh food area. I havent been able to check the defrost sensor because not sure which reading i am looking for. I also need help to check the compressor.

There is water pooled up underneath the freezer door. It is a line of water that follows the door width. There is no noticeable water inside the refrigerator compartment or the freezer. There is no noticeable frost buildup in the freezer. There is no water on the floor underneath or in the back. What could be the cause and fix of this line of water pooled up under the freezer door in the front?

The spark ignitor clicks and the bake burner comes on but the spark ignitor continues to spark for about 20 seconds
then the burner and spark ignitor stops. Then it retires every 1 to 2 minutes

What is the issue here?
In the diagnostic mode it showed F6E0.
This is a communication problem.
I tested the harness between the interface and the control. It was good.
I unplugged the unit and cleared the code but the BAKE still does the same thing.
In your experience what is causing this?
The ground is hooked up.

The refrigerator is sweating alot of water on the ice bin and the entire assembly there is cooling but it has alot of water why is doing that what part it needs to be replaced there

both compartments are not cooling. there is no frost build up, the drain is not clogged. The compressor runs, the fans run, the coils are clean. The thermostat turns the compressor on and off. Sounds to me like the thermostat is working but I don’t know how to test it. I don’t know if the refrigerator has a control board. I think it might have a faulty thermostat or its low on refrigerant. Do you guys have training on sealed systems? I haven’t tried any repairs. I saw one of your videos with a universal temp control, do you sell those or where can I get one?