Repair Help

I have Trouleshooted this unit, By; Running a Diagnosis-TEST on the Control board!!! 1.,2.,3., & 4. push on the test button, ALL the TESTS check out!!! There is NO-Check light flashing at ALL!!! BUT, this is the NEW type of Commpressor on this LG unit {Linear / Inverter Compressor}… I DO-NOT Know what Voltage should be going to this unit!!! The Compressor’s; sticker said: INVERTER 0–220V 53Hz… SO, when I check it with a DVM, I get a reading of; 35 Volts!!! The Compressor is Running, With “ALL” the Fans too!!! BUT, NOT–COOLING??????????????

What do you Think?????????

I have a miele refrigerator freezer on the bottom fridge in the top. the icemaker leaking water I check the icemaker tray is good everything is good but water not completely coming to the icemaker from the unit.
Water valve also good. I wanna diagnostic the icemaker I need service manual how to put it in diagnostic mode the icemaker.

The refrigerator section is getting too cold and freezing things. The Desupply damper by the pan doesnt appear to be opening could this or the chill fan be the cause of this issue.

The freezer fan motor only runs when the door is open

Replaced inverter board and still not starting
Inverter board blinks Green two times.
Has 120 volts going into inverter board but only 78 volts to start compressor to the pins.

The icemaker tray won’t dump if I push the test button it will dump sometimes but most times it won’t. The tray has a regular amount of water in it there is no spillage it seems to be a mechanical issue? Is it as simple as replacing the ice making unit in the door?

I have a situation with frost forming on the ice bucket, already replaced the flapper, it seems to be closing fine, no leaks around door gasket. Seems to reoccur about every 2 weeks.

Right door is not closing all the way and keeps popping out. Any videos to fix this issue. Tried hinges, gasket and stoppers nothing working.

This is a double wall oven with the 2 appliance managers. According to the tech sheet, if error code F1E0 appears then the UI must be replaced. I replaced the UI and the error code is still present. The tech sheet also mentions to check 14 VDC from the appliance manager to the UI at connection J4-4 to J4-2. I am getting 14 VDC. I am not sure why the appliance manager is sending 14 vdc to the UI but also sending the error code. I have tried clearing the error codes and discharging the relays on the appliance manager. No fix.

The dryer is not heating. We checked the element, the fuses and everything checks ok. We checked the airflow, unhooked the duct and ran it. Checked out ok. The motor is spinning. What parts should we replace in this dryer sequentially to repair unit?

After beginning a cycle, the initial fill seems to take longer than normal. After a few moments, the unit begins to drain (without beginning to wash) and the “Smart Auto” light blinks.
I have cycled power to reset.
I have also already replaced the thermistor.
There is no water in the drip tray beneath the unit.

The original complaint was that this Dishwasher was not responding to anything. NO POWER whatsoever. So we replaced the main control board and now the dishwasher will turn on but it the display keeps Flashing and not responding to anything. We have reset this board multiple times but it doesn’t seem to help. Does this unit need to have the control board be programmed or could this board be faulty?

Ge washer GTW330ask4ww. water inlet valve turns on and off intermittently then stops all together. Tank only fills up less than a gallon. Checked for error codes and I get code 5. XML version non-critical.

This washer machine does not power on any more. I would like to know what parts besides the PCB main board would help solve this problem. Please provide part numbers and diagram of the washer. Does this washer have a noise filter that can solve this problem. Any advice would be help full. They only thing tried was changing the power cord which worked for a few washes before no longer powering on. This is a Samsung washer.

Costumer explained Dryer door opens during operation. I ran the dryer and the door never opened.

Already checked and tested power, fuses, magnetron, capacitor and wiring harness for damage.

The washer turns on and goes through the washing cycle. It drains the watet after rinse. But fails to go into spin mode.

When you press bake to preheat upper oven broil element stays on.
When you press bake to preheat lower oven Broil element does not come on only bake element

I need service manuel to change out relay board

the refrigerator side stays at the set temperature, but the freezer side doesn’t go lower then 41 degrees I have the setting at 5 degrees.

This is a coin operated electric dryer. When it is started, the minutes display shows 45 and the light on the top panel is on for “cooling down” instead of “drying”. The heat cycles on and off and the time display counts down normally to 1 minute and remains at 1 minute, and the dryer continues to run and heat and doesn’t shut off. I’m suspecting the timer is the issue. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you.

the programming starts normally, water and washing works, when it is on the programming to drain the water the pump does not turn off and shows error I30, I have already replaced the board and the same defect continues

Machine not powering on

I Keep getting smart auto and heavy lights blinking after the dishwasher is running maybe five minutes, It seems like when it starts it automatically drains. I’ve reset the dishwasher multiple times each time it allows the psycho to go a little bit further but it doesn’t look like it’s putting much water in the dishwasher.

Last week I noticed the clock starting losing time. Then both timers stopped counting down when set. Now the interior lights don’t go on when the door is opened. So far, burners and oven work fine.