GOOD MORNING BRIAN. I DID RUN THE DIAGNOSTIC LIKE YOU INSTRUCTED, AND I FOUND 3 CODES AND 1 LAST CODE THAT WAS NOT LISTED. THE FIRST CODE WAS F5E1 LID SWITCH FAULT. THE SECOND WAS F2E1 STUCK KEY. THE THIRD WAS F7G1 BASKET SPEED SENSOR FAULT. THE FOURTH CODE WAS JUST A SINGLE BLINKING SENSOR LIGHT AND DID NOT SHOW UP ON THE LIST, I AM GUESSING THERE WAS NO FOURTH CODE STORED AND THAT WAS JUST THE DEFAULT FOR AN EMPTY CODE. WHEN I WAS CALLED THE ORIGINAL COMPLANT WAS THAT THE WASHER WAS NOT SPINNING OUT WELL ENOUGH. WHEN I CHECKED THE WASHER THE FIRST TIME I HAD KNOW TROUBLE SPINNING THE BASKET, AND NOTHING SEEMED TO BE TIED UP NEAR THE MOTOR. WHEN I TRIED STARTING A WASH THE MOTOR HUMED LIKE IT WAS HUNG UP AND CLICKED OFF. HOW ACURATE ARE THESE CODES, AND DO I START REPLACING PARTS ACCORDINGLY? I THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR TIME, TODD FROM NY.
- Guest asked 9 years ago
Yes, there is no fourth error code. The blinking sensor light is not an error code. With the unit not spinning out and stored error code of basket speed fault I would replace the actuator. This is also what could have caused the unit to stop when it started to sense at the beginning of the cycle you started. The actuator is the most common part we replace on these washers. Its part number W10006355. Make sure your lid lock is working properly since you have an error for it, but you could have that error code present simply because someone pressed the start button with the lid open. The stuck key error code could be present if someone held down the start button too long.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 9 years ago
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THANK YOU BRIAN. I KNEW YOU WOULD MAKE SENSE OF THIS PROBLEM. I BELIEVE I DID PRESS THE START BUTTON WITH THE LID OPEN AND HOLD DOWN THE START BUTTON TOO LONG.
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