Hi – I really appreciate your videos.
I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:
I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.
Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.
- Bret asked 10 years ago
- last edited 7 years ago
Hi Bret, We will need a valid model number in order to properly help you through your repair. What you provided is not a model number. The MN should be located in side the door on the frame. starting with “110.” most likely. If I were to guess, I would say that your thermal fuse and thermistor will need to be replaced. But, you will need a multimeter to confirm this. Upon providing us with a model number, I will direct you towards the links to purchase the necessary parts, along with repair help videos. If your thermal fuse is in fact bad, you will need to remove the blower housing and inspect the exhaust vent to make sure there is no blockage in the unit causing restricted airflow causing the fuse to blow. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52
- Tony, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
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UPDATE:
The dryer is fixed. Here’s how I got there:
- I did that test as specified on the TechSheet – resistance between P1-3 and P1-4 – readout was 1.7 ohms which was between 1-6 ohms suggesting (according to the TechSheet) a bad board.
- All the other tests on the board passed
- Because it didn’t say what that readout should be, I was not feeling totally confident
- I got the new control board ($$$) anyway and installed it then did the same test again – readout was again 1.7 ohms!!! Thought for sure I was sunk.
- buttoned things up and I wouldn’t have guessed it would, but it started fine. Got to good to be lucky I’ve always said.
- I will never know what that readout between P1-3 and P1-4 should be and what was wrong with the old board.
- full install and 6 loads later, all is good.
Moral of the story… Owing to the exact same readings on the dead and new boards, I was not able to properly diagnose the issue. The TechSheet didn’t do it either. I just got lucky that the new board worked. Frustrating experience but at least it worked out.
Many thanks Tony, for your guidance and assistance – I really appreciated the sounding board even if it didn’t zero-in on the root cause.
Bret
- Bret Smth answered 10 years ago
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Alright, well without a multimeter, it makes it difficult to diagnose the problem. You can pick one up fairly cheap and any type of parts or hardware store. If you can obtain a multieter, whether buying one or borrow from a friend, we can check continuity of the heating element, and also the thermal cut off. On some machines, the dryer will not run if one of these components are bad. Sometimes what can happen is the heating element can be shorted to the housing (ground) and cause it to stay on even after the unit is done with a cycle. If this happens, it will eventually blow the thermal cut off as a safety precaution. I will attach links and videos to each part. But it is highly recommended to get a multimeter in order to properly diagnose the issue…. Looking forward to getting this problem solved for you!
Tony-AceTech52
- Tony, Ace Appliance answered 10 years ago
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Post-Script from my earlier reply today (for Tony)…
I checked the blower housing from the front panel and cleaned out some lint. It wasn’t fully clogged but thought it may have affected the Thermal fuse nonetheless as that seems to be a common issue. I took a low-cost gamble and got the precise replacement fuse from my local parts supplier. Alas, the machine didn’t change its behaviour. It powers up fine, lets me choose a cycle but will only “beep” when I press “start”. The timer still counts down but no heat emerges and the drum doesn’t rotate at all (though it rotates freely by hand).
Looking at the diagnostics brochure, I should get an error code if it’s the Thermistor, but I don’t get that.
I have looked over the control circuit board (the one on the side, not the front panel) closely and do not see anything visibly fried there.
I am stumped. Please help if you can – many thanks.
Bret
- Bret Smith answered 10 years ago
- last edited 10 years ago
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Thanks Tony! I really appreciate your help.
Model number is: 110.C85081400. I have checked the exhaust from the rear of the unit and also peering down into the lint screen cavity and it seems OK. Perhaps I still need to go deeper. The bower housing is accessed from the front panel. Might do that today to be sure.
Standing by and again, 1,000 thank-yous!
Bret
- Bret Smith answered 10 years ago
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