(Maytag french door, freezer on bottom.)
Bottom 65% of evaporator completely blocked, ice on both ends to wall of freezer, but almost zero ice in tray below evaporator. Damper door open at top, a “roaring” sound which suggests an air flow blockage (evaporator fan working). I followed your excellent video on checking for blocked drain (drain free, no “grommet” at bottom of tube, but no moisture in drain pan.)
Evaporator appears to NOT be defrosting automatically. I suspect a sensor problem or a control board problem.
Refrigerator/freezer cleaned and disassembled. Back panel removed and compressor area vacuumed/cleaned. Currently waiting for evaporator to thaw. (This was a “coincidentally beneficial failure” as I found an impending failure of the icemaker external supply hose.)
I’m not sure what to ask for in the way of “Resource Materials.” Perhaps just speaking with somebody would be the most efficient.
- Guest asked 6 years ago
Hello
See the complete diagnostics manual links below along with the service manuals. If only 65% of the evaporator is frosted that could indicate a sealed system issue. A sealed system prom could be 1) Low refrigerant charge ( Leak in system ) . 2) A compressor that is not pumping properly ( Defective compressor ) . If the evaporator is 65% frost and the other 35% no frost at all it is a sealed system problem. You would then have a major cost to repair either of the two issues, evaporator replacement or compressor replacement. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 6 years ago
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Thanks, Matt. I did find the spec sheet when cleaning the condenser coils and figured how to do the Service Tests. #1, (Defrost Thermostat & Defrost Circuit Test) showed an open across the defrost thermostat. The calrod element had continuity, so I cut out the defrost thermostat to check it. It showed about 20 kohm. Because everything was warm, I threw it in the freezer after which it checked close to zero on a crummy multimeter. I reinstalled it and reran #1, again getting “open.” It’s probably a thermister, and when I jumpered it, test #1 showed “S” (closed) and the calrod warmed up. I plan to replace the defrost thermostat, but sure welcome any comments from you. I expect that you’re probably right that I may have a sealed system problem, but if I can get it running for a while longer for $50, I’ll do that. It’s about 10 years old so that’s about all one can expect these days. (I had a Gibson Market Master which lasted 30 years, but like George Goebel said: “They don’t make them there kind no more.” All that yammering aside, I welcome any comments. Thanks for the reply. Tom
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If you complete defrost the evaporator it will function and cool better until the coil ices up again. That usually takes about three weeks. If you are mounting the defrost thermostat on the 35% of the evaporator that is not frosted it will never close to energize and power the defrost calrod heater. If you put the defrost thermostat if a the freezer, it would have need to be in there 30 minutes or longer on the flat metal side facing down to sense the temperature and close. If you do not have a 100% even frost pattern across the evaporator after you defrost it completely, then turn it back on for 90 minutes to inspect the 100% frost pattern. If it not 100% frosted evenly across the evaporator, dont wast any money on parts, its a sealed system issue. You are correct on the older products, they lasted 2-3 times longer than the newer products on the market today.
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