Refrigerator started acting up a couple of years ago with the evaporator freezing up. I think a door was not closed completely. Anyway, recently, I have not been able to keep the freezer below 20 degrees. (I set to -6). Now, I can’t even keep the freezer below freezing. Freezer says 33, but really 38 with regular thermometer. Refrigerator says 43 and is 45. Freezer set to -6, refrigerator set to 37. Compressor fan works. Evaporator fan works. All thermistors read reasonable resistances. Defroster comes on occasionally and melts the ice that builds up on the evaporator coil. I have a service manual, so I know what pins to check for thermistor values, etc. I removed the main board to see if there was anything obviously wrong. It looks fine. The compressor runs constantly and is warm, but not hot. The condenser coils are not cold, but they are certainly not hot. There is frost buildup on the evaporator on the upper 1/3 right side. (I have a picture, but don’t know how to send it.) I unplugged the defrost heater and thermistor yesterday and the amount of frost is a bit more, since it did not defrost, but it is still not cold.) The compressor draws about 0.8 amps. (At start, a surge to about 6 amps but then it settles to less than 1 amp very quickly.
I am an electrical engineer, so I understand circuits and have plenty of test equipment. Since the compressor is running constantly, but the system is not cooling to less than 35 degrees, or so, in the freezer, and a bit warmer in the refrigerator, I can’t think of what else but the compressor, or freon (R413 or whatever) level being low could be causing the problem. I will never buy another GE appliance since I, and other family members, have had nothing but trouble with them. But, my understanding is that replacing the coolant or compressor is too expensive to be worth it. It is a shame that I just wasted over $350 on new door seals that arrived on Friday. I thought that was the problem, but clearly it was more serious.
See above.
- Guest asked 6 years ago
- last edited 6 years ago
Hello Ed
I just looked at the photo. You absolutely have a starved evaporator, low refrigerant charge. To decide on the repair options. If the unit is under 8- years old and you can repair it for less than 50% of the cost of a new unit. This repair will cost approximately $650 to $850 based on the area you live in. You need a new evaporator assembly.
- AV Repair Help answered 6 years ago
- last edited 6 years ago
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Hello
The one manual was loaded incorrectly . The other manual link below is correct for the pfs22 series refrigerator.
“No cooling” or “intermittent cooling” on PFS22 and PFS22S French Door Bottom Mount refrigerators can sometimes be attributed to the condenser fan motor running slowly or not running at all. If diagnosis shows the electronic main board not providing a minimum of 7.5 VDC to the condenser fan motor with the wiring connected (circuit under
load), the main board will need to be replaced. In addition, refrigerators produced in January and February 2007
(serial AM and DM), where the main board has caused intermittent condenser fan operation, data shows the overheating due to poor airflow has contributed to sealed system restrictions and failure with
compressors used in refrigerators produced during these two months.
Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 6 years ago
- last edited 6 years ago
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Have you inspected the evaporator for an even frost pattern ? If the thermistors were defective in most cases the fresh food section would freeze food. So if the compressor is running all of the time you most likely have a starved evaporator or low refrigerant charge. Look at the evaporator and you should have an even frost pattern across the complete coil. If you do not have an even frost pattern you have a major sealed system issue that is very expensive to repair.
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The manufacture uses the same manual for multiple models. The manuals and bulletin are definitely for your model.
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I have a picture of the evaporator. Where can I send it as a jpg or pdf?
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just sent photo of the evaporator
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