A customer calls me up and tells me that her fridge does not work. The temperature is dropping in both the freezer and fridge, but the light is on… nothing else is working
I stopped by to look at it, and ( of course) it’s running. The freezer is at 0*. She said that an hour or so before I came by, it just started to run.
I pulled the back panel off and checked the evap- coil and temperature thermostat. Both looked fine. In some cases if the defrost thermostat is bad, it looks like a bad can of beans. It’s cap is partially lifted up. But this one looks fine.
Q. What should the olms !be reading on this? And is there a specific olms reading if it is good? Do all defrost thermostats have the same olms reading to indicate that they are good? Or is it more complicated depending on the manufacturer?
- Guest asked 8 years ago
Hi. It does not sound like a defrost issue at all. The unit would not shut down like that and then come back on and get to proper temp again with a defrost issue. Defrost T-stat’s should have continuity (at proper temperature) and if they are bad, no continuity. Its as simple as that. No need to check a specific ohm resistance. Audible check is fine. It sounds like your Thermostat is bad. This will cause your symptom. The unit will stop running, then once temps are really warm or you turn the t-stat dial it will come back on and run until it reaches proper temp. Then it more than likely will fail again and not come back on. A lot of times you can tap or bang on the t-stat or in the area of it and it will cut in and cut out. IF you look under where the t-stat is mounted you will see a very small pile of back spots or dust. This is an indication of a bad t-stat as well. The t-stat for this unit is no longer available. p# WR9X352. IF fans were still running but not the compressor you are going to be looking at dirty condenser, overload and relay, or a faulty compressor.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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