DRY WILL NOT START, HAVE CHECKED ALL OF THE THERMAL FUSES, PUSH TO START SWITCH, TIMER AND DOOR SWITCH, (REPLACED THE DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE IT WAS STAYING CLOSED AT ALL TIMES), EVERY THING CHECKED OUT OK. I REPLACED THE TIMER WITH A NEW ONE JUST TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP, NOTHING. SO I THOUGHT NOTHING LEFT BUT THE MOTOR, NEW MOTOR STILL NO START.
THIS IS WHERE IT GETS GOOD, IF I DISCONNECT THE START SWITCH AND CHECK THE TWO LIGHT BLUE WIRE THAT THE WIRING DIAGRAM SHOW IS THE WIRES THAT ARE IN THE START CIRCUIT, I GET 120V FROM EACH WIRE.
SHOULDN’T I ONLY GET 120V FROM ONE WIRE, (POWER COMES IN ON ONE WIRE, PUSH START SWITCH AND POWER THEN GO THOUGH TOTHE OTHER WIRE. ) YET I AM GETTING 120 ON BOTH WIRE ALL THE TIME. DO I HAVE A DEAD GROUND SOMEWHERE? WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM . THANKS
CHECKED ALL STATS, REPLACED DOOR SWITCH, TIMER AND DRYER MOTOR.
- Guest asked 4 years ago
Sounds like a voltage or wiring issue. Yes, I believe you should only have 120v on one side at the pts switch. Check for correct power at the terminal block. Common to have burnt up connection at the terminal block. Then when wiring with in unit.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 4 years ago
- last edited 4 years ago
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Found the problem. Customer had installed a 4 wire receptacle, wired the dryer correctly for a 4 wire receptacle and dryer cord, but the receptacle was wired for a 3 wire cord. This caused the machines white neutral to carry 110v, (if the receptacle is wired for a 3 wire cord, this wire would be connected to the green ground screw, not the middle terminal). I just removed the white machine neutral wire from the middle terminal and reattached it to the ground. Can’t believe i spent so much time trying to figure this out. The fact that the 4 wire cord was installed correctly on the machine was what threw me off, never expected the outlet to be wired wrong!!
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That’s good news you found the issue and corrected it.
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