Brand: Viking

Hello,

Our fridge is working great as far as we can tell. We have owned it for 3+ years.
I am writing because I have noticed that when the compressor is on, or at least I think it is on, and at a higher rate of speed that it is a bit loud inside the unit and has some variation in the motor sounds when it is running – not smooth. I would like to send you an audio file that I created of the sound so you can see if things seem ok.
I could wait til it breaks but the unit is used in a luxury rental property and we don’t want a large failure in the middle of our rental season! Hope you can understand that I am being proactive vs. reactive.
I believe the fridge has made this sound for a while but am not sure if it is getting worse? Unclear to me.

And, if possible, I would like to know how to clean the coils of the fridge. I hope it doesn’t need to be rolled out to do this. Thanks.

Jeff

I’m following your video for replacing an axial fan motor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-67goBr-cFw However my fan motor is connected to the bracket not by metal screws as shown in the video, but by four silicone connectors. I don’t know how to disassemble these silicone connectors and then reattach them once the new fan motor is on the bracket. Please email me or call/text 8326462529. Freezer is powered down so immediate response requested. Thanks

I NEED THE DOOR HINGES FOR THIS OVEN AND ANY INFORMATION YOU HAVE ON HOW TO CHANGE THEM AS WELL. THANKS IN ADVANCE.

I am trying to access the user interface behind the knob. I am not entirely sure that it is the main control. But the oven works with the keys but not knob. I was told it is a 90% chance it is the main control but I have no clue how to access the user interface at the top behind the knob. Please help

-Replaced right side spark module twice now (CM didnt care about left side), Every time the oven is heated the whole top section gets extremely hot and spark module over heats causing sporadic clicking until it cools down an hour later
-Oven door shuts good
-Oven does NOT have a cooling fan because its a full gas range so no circuit boards to cool in back
-I put aluminum tape around spark module area directing the venting hot air away from the module housing
-I tried running the hood vent on maximum over the range to evacuate some heat, DIDNT help

I know the electric ignition one with the DSI ignition module has had a recall to install a cooling fan but this is a 13 year old range which the top of is over heating. Decently taken care of.. Any suggestions? I was thinking to run the module under the range to a cooler area but the micro switches on the valves are getting extremely hot too and brittle

After burner light up the spark ignitor continue to spark, this happen only on right front and right rear burners all others are fine.

Pan under fridge is full of scummy water, should I clean it and add water and replace? its a Viking Professional 36″ refrigerator with freezer on the bottom.

My alarm on my viking refrigerator will not shut off. I have pushed the alarm off botton.

First 5 minutes both burners fully lit flame with red nice tipping about 2.5″ in size, then left side starts to struggle and faintly sputter.
Been fixing the for 4 years now third time I come across this issue

When you put the thermostat in bake them turn off oven bake function doesn’t turn off meaning valve still open and bake burner going EVEN AFTER UNPLUGGING.
Naturally I thought maybe poor valve and swapped the bake and broil solenoids-didn’t do anything still WOULDN’T shut the gas off. So I had an exact ignition board DSI replacement and installed it. Still having issues shutting off. Came back replaced thermostat still doesn’t shut off…?? Super simple diagram loss like nothing left to replace unless my DSI ignition board was defective which it was new.

Oven was overshooting temperature significantly. You set it to 350f and it shoots up to 500f on an external thermostat. REPLACED thermostat with new one. Costumer still saying it over shoots about 150f. Is there any udjustability? There is no temp sensor only self clean timer thermostat probe and bake thermostat probe from the thermostat(replaced)

Indicator does two flashes next to thermostat in between pauses. Checked DSI (oven spark module) and it tested good. Even popped a new one in for good measure no change. I’m suspecting the thermostat it also has some grease in it which I know Viking addressed with a kit. Can you guys get me the diagnostic guide MOST IMPORTANTLY THE FLASHING ERROR CODE guide.

Verona range basically identical to a Bartezzoni. Oven itself is electric and has a thermostat and a large mechanical selector switch. After tampering with it the oven selector it started to work couple days later costumer said it failed to start. Any ideas on how these units operate? Seemed like a basic system and nothing burned or broken but seems to be failing.. thermostat? The large oven started to work after securing the leads on the selector switch.

10yr old $10,000 viking that will not dispense water and slow ice production. water line inside of freezer door is frozen. freezer temp is normal,should I just replace ice maker? can the freezer door insulation become compromised? is there a water line heater in the door?

Hi there,
My customer complains that the broil makes an explosion sound and she smells gas when she uses the broil, it does not happen all the time it just intermediate, when I tested it it was working fine. This model does not have ignitors just spark electrode on both bake and broil. Do guys experience any similar issue with this model?

She also mentioned that when it happens the spark electrode sparks once and then she doesn’t hear it anymore. When I was there it sparked 2-3 times and then lit up with no issues, I was there for 30 min and when the temp when down the broil lit up again with no issues

Thanks,
Don

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