Brand: Sub-Zero

I did replace the compressor and evaporator and heat exchanger on the sub zero model 680/s
Everything is running but not compressor,
Please I need advice and seal system service manual .

The refrigerator gasket hasn’t been closing properly for months. The interface on/off won’t respond nor the freezer/ refrigerator down pads. Where is the control board?

What does this sound like?
I need a parts breakdown and dissembling instructions. Also a service manual.

I’m guessing DSI or oven spark model.

Replaced main control board because it wasn’t sending 120 to compressor and it started working then had redo because stopped cooling for a day again and went up to 60f for a day. When new board finally sends voltage to compressor it clicks like 4-5 times revvs up several times without holding a constant run then on fourth try compressor seemed to start running good. I’m thinking maybe temperate sensors not telling the board to send voltage but why would the compressor seem to struggle to run? I’m thinking replace sensors and compressor. I ran through diagnostic everything on the board seemed to test good.

Hello
We have A Sub-Zero refrigerator that the (Vacuum condenser) light will come on within 24 hours after resetting. This is A dual compressor system and the unit is running prefect temperatures in the Freezer and refrigerator section. The freezer is at -1 degrees and the refrigerator is +38 degrees consistently. The condenser and condenser fan motor are clean. We even removed the condenser motor and cleaned the condenser with Co2. This condenser is spotless, you can shine A flashlight through it. I know the vacuum condenser light is an inefficient unit operation error. We pulled both evaporator covers in the fresh food and freezer section to verify they both have an even frost patter, we wanted to make sure there was not A starved evaporator before tapping the sealed system. We called the technician line at Sub-zero, they told us to tap the freezer and refrigerator section to check the pressures. We are not going to do that with perfect operating temperatures and even frost patterns on both evaporators. With perfect cooling temperatures in both sections is there any other suggestions before moving to the display board? Thanks in advance

Hello,
First of all thank you for producing the great instructional videos that you do. They really are a god send for amateur DIY folks like myself who have some mechanical skills but are approaching a new problem they are unfamiliar with – in my case a warm refrigerator.

I have a Sub-Zero refrigerator (model # 650/S) that won’t cool below approx. 50 degrees in the main refrigerator section, (the freezer section works fine). I’ve cleaned the condenser coils and cleaned the door seal, but the problem remains. I checked the condenser fan and it is running OK. I checked the compressors and both are warm and have a slight vibration, indicating (to me at least) that they are working. The evaporator fan in the man section of the refrigerator works OK as I see it spinning when I open the door. I removed the back panel of refrigerator to expose the evaporator coils and observed frosting only on the top left section where the tubes go into the evaporator. Everywhere else on the evaporator is free of frost and warm to the touch. Does this indicate a refrigerant leak at the join and necessitate replacement of the evaporator and unit recharge? Are there any other possible causes that I should check out before purchasing a new evaporator?

Thanks,
Eoin.

I can get ice ice if I open door and hit ice button but not on door.

Initial problem was the condenser fan went out so when I got there replaced the condenser fan motor with a generic one That has worked perfect for me for on Sub-Zero before And cleaned the condenser very nicely meanwhile having it Unplugged for about 15 minutes. Customer called back said it’s not cooling still in the refrigerator section and VACUUM CONDENSER light on. Found system needs refrigerant. My guess is that there is a Freon leak in the evaporator although I did not see a ice formation on either trip And the customer said it stopped cooling overnight.
-So my question is does the condenser light come on for any issue? Isn’t there also a service light that should come up instead?
-What if the vacuum condenser light or service light Keeps coming back? I had a customer a year ago that wanted me to replace his compressor and exchanger with a generic one because it was readily available and the service light and error 40/50 kept returning even tho it was cooling perfectly.
Prefer technician input over paperwork.

When I run the diagnostic it comes up with an error for fresh food “Thermister error 02 3x”
“Z3 evaporator thermistor “
But on the diagnostic diagram it says to check reading on zone 3 thermister and condenser thermister leads which I couldn’t get to.

Hello, I have ice dispenser flap that is not closing all the way, on a Sub-zero side by side, because it looks like the heater on it has shorted and made a bubble on the surface. Can this part be replaced? PS it is not the round dispenser flap on the refrigerator door. It is the flap that is in between the wall that separates the freezer and refrigerator.

Hello, I have ice dispenser flap that is not closing all the way, on a Sub-zero side by side, because it looks like the heater on it has shorted and made a bubble on the surface. Can this part be replaced? PS it is not the round dispenser flap on the refrigerator door. It is the flap that is in between the wall that separates the freezer and refrigerator.

I have had several sub zeros in the past couple months with this issue and I don’t know how to address it.
The ice maker does not make ice even when you select max ice on the display. There is a valve by the filter and then one more before the ice machine with a weird sensor on it. I first forced the original icemaker through a cycle by twisting the gear it looks like a Frigidaire icemaker and it went through the test cycle including filling with water at the end. But the customers all said that it only made that one batch of ice that I forced it to fill for.
All those customer said they replaced water filter before and still no ice. Reset the fridge. No ice. Checked for frozen fill tube. Made sure the water pressure is good. Made sure the switches by the ice machine work. It seems like only thing left is the main board that controls the power to ice maker and Even that makes me feel weird because why does the icemaker work when I set to max ice and forced the gear?

SUB ZERO FRIDGE SIDE How to adjust the fresh food door Because it is tilting with The top over to the right. I tried adjusting based on what I found online but it only made it worse and scrapes the other door when you open it. Can I please have the manual and for schematic of this fridge

I have a subzero 590 that is dripping water. I need to check the lines going to and leave the water reserve tank. But I don’t know how to get to it.

I am working on a subzero refrig. Model# BI-36U/S/TH
The unit was warming up and found the condenser fan not running.
I had power to fan motor, so I ordered a new fan motor and went to install
It but the new one did not work. But I am getting 110v to fan.
Could it be the main control board causing the issue possibly ?
Any help would be great.
Thanks

(Sub zero. Brand selection not finding.)
Digital display responds to touch and was set to 45 f in the fresh food section but when I press colder it displays 35f really quick then back to 45f. After resetting the fridge several times it finally allowed me to to click the set temperate colder and lowered to 35f. Wondering if it’s the display that’s defective and what part should I replace just the display panel because it’s connected with a touch membrane but when I selected to go down it responded to my touch but did not go down 1° every click until I reset it.

evaporator has no defrost heater, only the bottom freezer has a defrost heater and defrost timer. how does the refrigerator coils defrost? This problem of refrigerator coils freezing up only started in the pass 6 months and now happens all of the time.

Subzero side-by-side it wasn’t cooling in the Freezer section so Replace the old compressor and now it’s running and cooling good but the vacuum condenser light came back and keeps coming back every time it’s reset or unplug for 15 minutes. I vacuumed and cleaned with condenser foam cleaner so I know it cleaned up pretty well in there I’m not sure what else to try maybe I’m missing something? Maybe the condenser fan is weak now and doesn’t cool quite as well?

What is the best way to remove and replace the condenser fan motor on this model? Any tips? Thank you.

Cleaned the condenser coils, everything working fine. Will clean better with foaming spray and check reservoir pan when I go back.

Refrigerator is having some problems

My Sub zero refrigerator is not cooling properly.