Appliance Type: Refrigerator

French door style fridge with freezer draw at bottom. fridge does not hold temperature (set for 32 but reads ~50F with separate thermometer). Initially, display at top (where doors close) displayed a “power outage” warning but there was no other indication that the house or that circuit had lost power at anytime. made several attempts to turn power off to fridge (at the breaker) with hope it would reset. fridge makes several different types of audible chimes, sometimes with two distinctly different chines going off at the same time. I have not been able to find anything on the internet to help put this specific model into diagnostic mode, nor do i have the cheat sheet to know what those codes mean but suspect switches at the ice dispenser console (exterior of left door) can get me into diagnostic mode. Also, i will occasionally hear a mechanical whine (very low) which could be compressor related. everything else about the failure and various chimes (one could be a high temp warning) suggests possible bad control board or power supply tripping an issue? Bottomline, would like to diagnose the problem, understand what part(s) are required to fix it and get repair instructions to swap out that part.

I AM GETTING WATER DISPENSING AT THE DOOR. HOWEVER I AM NOT GETTING WATER TO ICE MAKER. I HAVE REPLACED MOTHER BOARD. MAIN. AND THE WATER AND ICE BOARD. AND WATER INLET VALVES.

GOOD DAY,
WE HAVE A GE REFRIGERATOR THAT EVERY MONTH OR 2 THE DRAIN LINE FREEZES AND NEEDS TO BE CLEARED. NOW THE REFER SIDE IS TOO COLD AND FREEZING THE VEGES AS WELL AS THE DRAIN TUBE BLOCKED AGAIN.

THANK YOU,
LISA MARTIN

Whirlpool fridge randomly displays two negative signs. One negative sign on the FZ display and one negative sign on the FF display. When this happens the refrigerator stops cooling both compartments. User Interface buttons need to be press and that makes the refrigerator work again. Once the refrigerator is working normally it takes a couple of days for the negative signs to pop up again.

This client of ours is re-reporting their side-by-side refrigerator refrigerator keeps going into overheat and displays that on the front display. Resident and unplugged it and turns it back on and it’s working properly. This continues to happen more and more for our resident. Is there a part that I need to replace to prevent this, every time I go there, the refrigerator is working properly.

I have a service call tomorrow for a refrigerator not dispensing ice. It does dispense water, icemaker is making ice the only issue customer said is not dispensing ice.

It had the compressor replaced about 3 years ago, I can fill it running but my gauges won’t work I guess it is because it is a flamable refrigerant. the condensor and evaporator fans are running. I replaced the thermister on the compressor but it didn’t help Idon’t know how to test the other components. It has a small computer on the top but I couldn’t find a way to test the other components.

Refrigerator is cooling ok but freezer is 51 f

Wondering does the air flow Tower need to be changed or just the evaporator fan motor. Is there another motor that needs to be changed as the condenser fan motor is spinning and working in the back of the refrigerator. Just checking to ensure this refrigerator only has one evaporator fan as it seems just to send the air through the air flow Tower

My Samsung refrigerator model #RF263TEAESR/AA is leaking water and pooling under the deli tray and even had some ice on it. So I unplugged the appliance and let it defrost then took it apart as as Appliance Video.com instructed. I disconnected the wires on the top right as the video showed and removed the thermostat wire and sensor. Then the video directed me to the left side. There is a connection for the defrost heating element and I only unplugged that. The video instructed me to then remove the bi-metal however, my refrigerator does not have a bimetal. It has the plug but it just loops back into itself with a red wire. Does this mean that it has no need of a bi-metal anywhere? my refrigerator has the numbers 07 in the corner of the data tag if this helps.

Thank you,
Jack

How to uninstall water filter housing for this model.

I need to know how to remove the water filter housing RFID board. Board has a small bolt screw not sure what size tool needed to remove. Any videos, service manual and tools used to perform repair would be greatly appreciated.

The leak is coming from the water valve into the fridge. I tested the valve: 185 ohms. I also tested it mechanically thinking it would stay open but it didnt. Could this issue be with the ice maker or mainboard. I dont know how common this fail is with this refrigerator.

Freezer evaporator has frosted. Evaporator fan ok. How is the defrost heater controlled?

The refrigerator does not cool consistently. Customer stated they’ve been having power surges. The refrigerator seems to cool and work for a couple hours then shuts off, will get to 65 in the refrigerator, then will starts working again. Food spoils. Customer unplugged unit for a while and plugged back in. Damper is open can feel air flow, fan is working. Tested thermistor 11.15 k ohms, How do we test the control board, and what should the thermistor be testing at?

THIS UNIT WAS ORIGINALLY OPENING ON IT’S OWN THEN IT WOULDNT DO THIS FEATURE AT ALL.

Does this unit have a heat exchanger?

My technician said he needs this part due to a Freon restriction. We are not finding a picture on the parts diagram.

My tech said its a capillary tube running from the evaporator that is likely restricted. He was working on a sealed system repair, replacing the compressor and evaporator today.

Please let me know the part number that would be needed.

How much ice should this refrigerator produce in a 24 hour period?

The freezer section is cooling but the fridge compartment is not cooling.

Board is flashing 4 times which says it is a locked compressor, the tech tested the 3 leads on the compressor, they all tested 12 ohms each. He tested them to ground and that passed. Control board has 3 wires going to the compressor, each wire to ground test 125 volts dc. Is this AC voltage that goes to the compressor or DC. Is it the compressor that has failed, or the board?

Customer put a standalone thermometer in refrigerator section. Temperature goes from 50 to 37 degrees. Is this normal or does the main PCB need to be replaced.

Hi,

The refrigerator is cooling but the freezer is not reaching the correct temperature (cooling but not freezing). There is ice build up on the right side of the evaporator coil (not on the evaporator itself). Both fans are running (condenser and evaporator).

To whom it may concern,
I have a whirlpool WRF757SDEM refrigerator that recently has a loud noise coming that appears to be coming from the top section. Last year I replaced the evaporator fan and thermostat as the unit has frozen up and stopped cooling. After that fan was replaced the unit was very quit and running normally.
Recently ( past 3 days) it has gotten very loud at times with a slight vibration. At times, the sound is very loud, but then it gets quieter; almost to normal levels.
The top unit is cold and maintains temperature, there isn’t any issue making ice and everything is cold and frozen in the freezer.
I am wondering if its an issue with the evaporator fan and if that needs to be replaced again.
Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Kindest regards,
Kris

Hello,

Our fridge is working great as far as we can tell. We have owned it for 3+ years.
I am writing because I have noticed that when the compressor is on, or at least I think it is on, and at a higher rate of speed that it is a bit loud inside the unit and has some variation in the motor sounds when it is running – not smooth. I would like to send you an audio file that I created of the sound so you can see if things seem ok.
I could wait til it breaks but the unit is used in a luxury rental property and we don’t want a large failure in the middle of our rental season! Hope you can understand that I am being proactive vs. reactive.
I believe the fridge has made this sound for a while but am not sure if it is getting worse? Unclear to me.

And, if possible, I would like to know how to clean the coils of the fridge. I hope it doesn’t need to be rolled out to do this. Thanks.

Jeff