All Answers

Hello
There is a possibility of a power outage or power interruption. When that happens you need to shut the unit down for 3-5 minutes to reset the main control board. If this happens again you will need to enter the unit into the diagnostic mode. The complete diagnostics are in the two service sheet links below. Hopefully it was only a power interruption and your issues is solved.

To ENTER SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode:
Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds. Release both buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator.
Unit must not be in Lockout prior to entering SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODE.
The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in step 1 of the diagnostics routine.

Hi. Will the unit go into spin on other cycles? Are you getting any error codes on the display when it will not spin or does it end the cycle? I have attached the tech sheet for you. Try running the diagnostic test cycle. If you have gotten an error code locate it in the tech sheet to see what it means. If you are not getting error codes and the unit ends the cycle, it could be going off balance. check the shocks if it is not the load causing it.

Hello
See service manual links along with service bulletins.

Hello
See service manual with ice maker diagnostics along with one service bulletin.

Hello
See the service bulletin corrections. I believe this is your problem. The loop above the ice maker is not a heater, it is a refrigerant line. Do not try to remove it as it will develop a leak in the refrigerant line.

Hello
See the service manual link below. The manual link below will give you a detailed parts breakdown on how each part in the unit. Go to the index page #79 to find out what parts you need. Thanks

Hello
Service diagnostic mode. Also see service manual link.
1) TO ENTER TO SERVICE MODE, ROTATE CYCLE SELECTOR TO ANY POSITION EXCEPT POSITION 6.
PRESS START BUTTON AND FS BUTTON AT SAME TIME, WAIT 3 SECONDS, THEN ROTATE CYCLE SELECTOR TO POSITION 6, WAIT 3 SECONDS AND RELEASE BOTH BUTTONS AND ALL LEDS WILL BLINK.
2) ROTATE KNOB CLOCKWISE TO VARIOUS POSITIONS PER SERVICE FUNCTION TABLE TO PERFORM FUNTIONAL CHECKS.

Hi. The door switch or the touch panel are the first two things of many that come to mind to cause an intermitten no start issue. I have attached the tech sheet for you.

Hello
See technician sheet link along with diagnostics.

Hello
See manual links below.

Hi. Sound like you have a stuck relay on the main control board. I found this part number with the model number you provided. DC92-01625B I would double check your model number, especially the 2 numbers that would be at the end of the model number.

Hello
The burners are ignited by a glow bar ignition system. The igniter is a Norton style rectangular glow bar. The grill and riddle ignition circuits consist of the control, an igniter, and a safety valve. These components are wired in series
for each cooking function. You could have a bad igniter which is most common. See the complete manual link below for proper diagnostics . I advise to call a professional if you are not sure how to service properly.

Hi. You could have a door switch issue. make sure the door switches are working properly or test good. Make sure the control lock is not on. Then it either comes down to the main control or UI, but if you are getting power to the UI and the buttons stop working It seems like the UI would be the issue. Plus, if it was doing the same thing and then you replaced the UI and it worked for a while I would think you have a bad UI again.

Hello
Did it cool in the FF section immediately or within 24 hours of the compressor installation ?
Here are the possibilities that could cause your issue.
1) Refrigerator light not shutting off.
2) Refrigerator therimstor – If new thermister was installed it could be wired in REVERSE . See ( RC ) diagnostics in the manual link below.
3) Defective door switch, possibly caused by door not aligned properly to make the switch.
4) The Air Door Damper wired in REVERSE. See service bulletin on Air Diverter, new part number is new diverter #2309222.
5) The evaporator fan motor blade installed upside down.
6) Part of the defrost system defective causing frost on the coil restricting air flow to refrigerator section.
7) The foam diverter at the top, rear section of the freezer compartment may be missing or miss-positioned. Preventing proper airflow to the refrigerator section is interrupted and the air returns may become blocked with ice. ( See service bulletin link below on foam diverter )
8) The foam air baffle on the top right hand side of the evaporator may be loose, out of position, damaged or
missing. If it allows warm air from the refrigerator to pass by, ice can form above and below the baffle, all the way
down into and blocking the air return. SEE SERVICE bulletin ( Foam air baffle )

Hello
These errors are low water pressure errors and wash motor errors.

Checking fill valve
1) Turn off water supply to dishwasher, disconnect water line to inlet valve, inspect/ clean the inlet screen of fill
valve, and reconnect water. Check other error codes to see if 6-4 also occurred. See 6-4 Error Code.

Check wash motor
1) Check operation of wash motor during diagnostics. See service manual link below.
2) Check resistances of connections in the Wash circuit.
3) Check/fix loose connections or replace wash motor. See complete diagnostics manul links below.

Hello
Have verified the ice maker compartment temperatures. They should be between -5 degrees and +10 degrees. If you are not getting the proper temperatures the ice maker will not harvest. You may then have a secondary issue not letting the unit ice maker head get down to the proper temperature.There could be many reasons for the temperature issue. I would put a thermometer near the ice maker to see if you are getting -5 to +10 degrees. If you are not then you have a cooling issue that needs to be addressed. You could have a defrost issue, low refrigerant charge or a few other possibilities. Run the unit through the diagnostic mode in the manual link below if your temperatures are above +10 degrees. If they are below +10 degrees replace the ice maker head complete, its not worth replacing internal parts of the ice maker in most cases.

More that likely you have a bad control board. The relay for the drain pump goes bad on these boards . seen it many times. Not sure if your control board will be available. could have it rebuilt if not. I have attached the service manual for you. you can run a test mode to turn on the drain test and it should be draining. if your not getting the correct power to the drain pump the control or wiring between is bad. Or you can check for voltage right out of the control to eliminate wiring.

Hello
We do not see any service bulletins on this issue. I have provided the service manual that can take you through the diagnostics. You will need to call LG for certification.

Hi. make sure the other door seal going around the door is good. You want to pull the bottom of the unit out a little further that the front so water does not rush to the bottom of the door. Not sure if this is what you did when you said you tilted the unit back. Also, make sure the unit is level from side to side. if not you can have a larger gap on one side of the door than the other allowing water to leak out. Check to see if the tub is warped. I have seen a lot of these plastic tubs warp on top, bottom, and sides. Some of these units have corner door seal pieces at the bottom too. If yours does, make sure they are in place.

Hello
See the technician sheet link below. On page one go through the two tests.
1) The defrost control test
2) Baffle module test
If these two test come back normal, the doors are not sealing or closing properly. That will cause condensation and frost. You clearly DO NOT have a sealed system issue if your freezer temperature is +5 degrees. I would completely defrost the unit for 24 hours with the doors open to get get frost and ice out of the air shoots.Then when you turn it back on, you can make sure both doors are closing and sealing properly. I believe this will rectify your issue.