All Answers

Hello
See the service manual link below. If the flash is one second on and one second off that is normal standby mode. If its one long flash that would be a motor error. See the link below to put the unit into the field service mode to determine the exact error code. It will then indicate what area to address. Also look at the Service bulletin (Loose or Damaged Counterweight and Damaged Platform in Top Load Washers ) link .

Hi. To me it sounds more like a defrost issue with refrigerator evaporator. The ice builds up from the unit not defrosting properly then this blocks air flow. That is why the top of the refrigerator is too warm but the bottom is ok or too cold. With a leak you notice more so and 1sr that the freezer temperatures are too warm. So if your freezer temps ok, its a sign that issue is not a refrigerant leak also. There is a update with the defrost sensor on the refrigerator evaporator that causes this issue. I have attached the service bulletin that explains this update. I would also replace the sensor. The part number for the sensor is going to be determined by the last 2 digits of the model number. It will either end in 00 or 01.

Hello
I have provided the complete service manual witch is 105 pages. It has everything from diagnostics to the refrigerant leak information that the technician diagnosed. If in fact you have a refrigerant leak you will need to find a company that does ( Sealed System repairs ). That company can come out and find the leak, in most cases its in the evaporator coil. They can replace the evaporator coil and correct the issue. Not many company’s do sealed system repairs as it takes a lot of training and equipment.

Hello
There are a few possibilities. The first thing I would check is for the proper power supply into the unit. You want to make sure your outlet has 1) The correct power. 2) Your hot / neutral power is correct. 3) The outlet is properly grounded. You can get this Klein tester for $10.00 at this link below if you do not have a volt meter. If the outlet test properly. Then you will need to put the unit into the diagnostic mode to check for stored error codes. The instructions are on page #4 in the technician diagnostic’s guide link below. All of the fault codes are listed in this technician sheet to tell you the error and how to fix the problem.

Hello
Go to page #49 in the troubleshooting link below. When the ( heavy & Smart Auto ) is blinking together it is a (Over-level water error). These are most common possible causes in this order.
1) Water supply valve defective.
2) Flow meter defective.
3) Main (PBA) defective.

Hello
You will need go to page #29 in the service manual link and run through the diagnostic mode for stored error codes. All of the error codes will be on page #29 through #30 and will tell you exactly what the potential error may be. You could have a ( main PCB failure ) (Sub PCB ) or even a shorted keypad.

WH49X24834 is a GE factory part and what shows in our dealer look up by your model #.I have attached the link to searspartsdirect for you to view. The cost is $54.22

Hello, it is not uncommon that a small amount of water leaks from the tub seal and compromises the Platform & Bearing Retainer assembly. It is recommended that you also replace the mode shifter assembly as well (WH49X24834) as it only costs around $50 retail. (around $35 dealer cost) The tub seal which leaked
(WH02X10362) does come with the Platform & Bearing Retainer assembly. We have attached a couple of diagnostic information links for you.

Hello
See manual link below for a for model #DLEX7600. They have not changed . Here are some vibration possibilities.
1) Make sure the dryer is on a solid base floor that is level.
2) Make sure the dryer is level, check leveling legs if not.
3) Check your drum rollers on page #74 in the link below. If the drum roller bearings are worn, the unit will vibrate. There are thee rollers that hold your drum.
4) If your blower housing assembly get impacted with lint, you will get a vibration from the blower wheel. See page #73 in the manual link below.

It seems the washer is detecting an off balance load which will cause the unit to attempt to rebalance the load. This extends the length of the spin cycle. It could repeat 3 or more times before finally ending the cycle. Since you already replaced the shocks and this happens with no load in the machine, you most likely have an issue with the bearings or basket. Especially since you said the unit will shake as it speeds up with no clothes in it. That would be somewhat normal with a load but it really should not do that with nothing in it. I have seen the baskets become more of an oval shape instead of circular. Pretty common on these to develope this issue. You can usually see this if you rotate the drum and watch in one area as it goes around the gap between the basket and tub will go from no gap to large gap instead of staying the same. The basket would need to be replaced. The “spider” on the back of the basket could have broke which will cause a lot of play in the basket. When you lift the front of the basket up you can see it, or the bearings going out. Those usually cause the unit to be loud in spin as well. Make sure the shipping bolts are not still installed through the back the machine as well.

This could be the splutch itself or the shifter actuator. You have to be able to determine the error code by the technician diagnostic and troubleshooting service manual we have attached. It explains the error codes and the corrective procedures.

Hello
Is this unit under 1- year old ? If so call GE at 1-800-432-2737, this should have a one year factory warranty. The 888 means the PC control board my be shorted and the display driver that shows what supposed to be a display is not working. You will most likely need a new board.

Hello
See the link below with your service manual & wiring diagram for a Frigidaire electric range model FCRE3052AW

Hello, I have attached a great all encompassing service bulletin for your issue.

Hello
* The C24 error is a freezer defrosting error.
Diagnostics: After separating MAIN PCB CN20 wire from PCB, resistance value between CN20-“6” ↔ CN20-“8” shall
be 63(230) ohm ± 7%.(Resistance value is varied by input power) 0 ohm : heater short, ∞ ohm : wire/ bimetal open Must power off) .

• C25 Error is a Fridge Defrosting Error
  Diagnostics :After separating MAIN PCB CN20 wire from PCB, resistance value between CN20-“6” ↔ “8” shall be 120
  ohm ± 7%. (Resistance value is varied by input power) 0 ohm : heater short, ∞ ohm : wire/ bimetal open (Must power off)

• The C40 Error is an Ice room Error .
  Diagnostics : Check the voltage of MAIN PCB CN20-“22″↔ “24: shall be between 7V~12V

• The C65 Error is Fridge Ice Room Heater Error – Make sure this heater is not shorted as it will trip the breaker
  Diagnostics : After separating MAIN PCB CN20 wire from PCB, resistance value between CN20-“19” ↔ “23” shall be 135 ohm ± 7%. (Resistance value is varied by input power) 0 ohm : heater short, ∞ ohm : wire/ bimetal open (Must power off).

See complete manual link below. Go to page #53 to run this unit through the test mode. This will give any stored error codes.

Hello
The (AE6 ) error code is The signals between the sub and main PBAs are not sensed because of communication error. Things to check.
1) Check the connector connections between the sub and main PBAs carefully.
2) Check for incorrect or loose connections, etc.
3) Remove the sub PBA C/Panel and check for any faulty soldering.
See all error codes and corrections on page #19 in the service manual link below. Also see (Manual test mode) page #34 in the test mode link that will show all stored error codes.

IF THE MOTOR WILL NOT RUN , COMPLETE THE CHECKLIST BELOW.

1) CHECK FOR POWER:
Advance the timer knob to the drain
increment. If the drain pump does not run,
check household safety circuit. If the drain
pump runs go to step 2.
2. CHECK FOR MOTOR MOVEMENT:
Turn the water off to the washer. Remove
electrical power from the washer and
remove the back panel. Remove the motor
drive belt. Reconnect electrical power and
set the timer to the start of the Regular wash
cycle and pull the knob out. If motor does
not rotate, check for a poor connection in the
timer line switch or door lock switch. If good,
and motor does not run go to step 3.
3. MEASURE VOLTAGES:
Remove the six pin plug from the speed
control unit. Measure the voltage between
pins 5 and 6 on the harness. If the meter
reads 0 check the connection in the timer
line switch or door lock. If the meter
reads 120 Vac .
See complete technician sheet link below for the next steps, if steps 1-3 do not correct your issue.

Hello
I have sent you a link below for technical diagnostics. Go through the top symptom ( dishwasher will not operate properly when turned on ) . The guide will walk you through the steps and give you suggested remedy’s.

Hello
See the link below. Once opened go to page #44 for instructions on the disassembly.