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There are a lot of how to s on the drain pump. I don’t need that. I was asking a specific question on the flapper , or other issues that it could be , since I replaced the pump recently. I was looking for insight into this before I take the machine apart. I have now ordered a pump and rubber check valve .
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Hello, it is not abnormal for the check valve (flapper) on drain pump to distort, however usually does not cause a complete no drain. More than likely there is some type of obstruction in the drain pump, or tub to pump hose. Unfortunately it is not uncommon to have another bad drain pump either. You are on the right track.
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ok I sort of thought that, ordered the pump and rubber check. you were right pump was sloppy and worn, its seems these things are pretty cheap, replaced both, and super bummed , still not draining. I thought for sure it was the pump. I shinned a light in both drains and all seemed pretty good . no loose wires. Washer works fine otherwise. This seems to be a tough one. That rubber check was starting to tear at the hinge a bit, but seems to be fine- replaced anyway .let me know what you think …
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Okay, at this point we need to make sure if we do or do not have correct power at the drain pump . There should be 120 volts ac at the connector when in the drain cycle. Also, really make sure the tub to pump hose is not restricted right at the tub connection and the outlet drain hose is not obstructed. If you do have correct voltage to the new pump and it sounds like the impeller is running it has to be some type of collapsed drain hose or obstruction. If you do not have power at the drain pump connection then we have to look at control outputs and check continuity of wiring.
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quick update, when the tub was full, I put a bucket down and pulled the filter and two buckets of water poured out. shut machine off then back on , its frozen, lights up but no mater what cycle it will not start, just clicks and chimes but won’t work., tried un plugging, still sam thing. but when I first started, as I stated above , it worked fine up to drain issue. now it won’t do much of anything.
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I am not sure what may have happened to cause controls to freeze up unless some wiring became compromised or disconnected. If everything is properly connected try unplugging for an hour or so to see if the control will reboot. Otherwise, please see diagnostic steps in the service manual we attached for you. Any further steps would come from this service manual.
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Ok, opened it up. while I have not tested yet, it looks like the two wires to the pump were not correct, in that purple one loose, I believe that one is toward fromt of machine, not sure it matters, let me know, but what happened is I slid it in to the side of the metal tab. I noticed some machine have a harness connector , I would much prefer this connection., failing that I will wire in better , tighter tabs as these are loose. Do you have a part number for the harness wire connector, I had hoped to find it but I don’t have it.
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Go to Sears partsdirect.com. they will be able to look up the part for you and get you the correct connector. They can also drop ship the part directly to you.
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Ok, sorry the issue was not improper wiring with the two wires going to pump. I put new wire connectors on nonetheless . Also tried to mess with the board relay, open it up , sanded the contacts, etc. Washer started to drain but then stopped mid cycle. I think the cycle will stop if the pump is not draining, so back to start on this So recap, replaced pump- tested with direct voltage-works fine, fixed wires, vacuumed out hose drain- nothing in there at all, checked tub drain, played with relay. I am stuck on why not draining. I can call a guy out , but like others I feel I am missing something basic. Is there a solenoid somewhere I am missing? what is the large device that is to the right of the pump I replaced. Is that another pump or solenoid? do I now replace the entire drain assembly. One idea is remove the back and remove both hoses and triple check those but I have my doubt this is it. they seemed good after looking at them from the pump side.
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do you have a different service manual . The diagrams for Main PCB does not match mine. Had repair guy say its the main board , he started a cycle, and tested power to pump, no power so he assumes its a board.
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Hello, Samsung only has one service manual, and it is the one in this link.
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If the technician diagnosed it as a bad main board, I would replace the board to correct the issue. You will not need a diagram to replace the board.
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This tech was not seasoned , asked me for the manuel says a lot. The pump is new and seems to get power. I drained water with a bucket, started spin, spin completed. Next I tried rinse and spin, would not complete, would not drain but tried to drain for 5 sec. Next powered off and started a new cycle since is calls for drain first thing, worked for 5 sec then stopped the cycle . I tested recirc pump, seemed ok could it be a water level sensor got any other ideas . drain pipes good, check valve seems easy to operate and fine, wires are good- nothing loose.
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To recap, it comes down to if you definitely either do or do not have constant power to the drain pump. If you absolutely do have constant power to the drain pump then you either have a bad drain pump (even though its new) or an obstruction. If you do not have constant power to the drain pump then it may be a control issue.
