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Hi Brian. I really appreciate your response. I just replaced the inverter board and that did not solve the issue. I ran the self diagnostics and does not report any codes. The light on the inverter board is solid red with no codes. I will order a main board and give that a try. Are there any additional parts you recommend throwing at it? Thanks Jeff
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No other parts I would go with at this time. I think the main board is the way to go.
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HI Brian. I just replaced a brand new main board and inverter board and does still not work. Still getting the same symptoms. Showing no codes. Any other suggestions?
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With the new board in, just the condenser fan motor will run? Nothing else? Make sure the unit is not in a demo mode and that cooling is not turned off. Also, in the diagnostic mode you should be able to turn loads on and off. So you can turn the evap fan motor on, compressor etc. I’m curious if they will turn on in the test modes.
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Hi Brian, Thank you for the response. I made sure the unit is not in demo mode. Only the condenser fan motor is running. I tried the force run modes but cant seem to notice the compressor turning on. Should I change out the compressor start module item that is next to the compressor next?
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Your welcome. Strange that only the condenser fan runs and not the evap fan motors. That should be more of the main board but you replaced it. Definitely if the compressor is not running it could be the inverter or the. Compressor itself. i have found it to be the compressor vs the inverter in most of the ones I have came across. You could check for power to the inverter to see if voltage is present or just change it out. These usually have an extended warranty on the compressors if that helps at all.
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Hi Brian. I already did replace the inverter board. The LED is a solid Red LIght. Also no codes with self diagnostics. Should I try Compressor Starter Module next? Could it also be a bad condenser?
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Hi. The condenser would not be faulty, but the compressor most likely is. What would the compressor starter module be? I don’t see that on the breakdown. Do you have a part number?
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In the videos on this web site there is a video called repacking compressor starter. I think the correct term is compressor overload protector. I ordered the part and will give it a try. I’m surprised that there are no errors codes to lead me in the right direction.
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Hi Brian. I finally got the compressor overload protector part # DA34-00004D. It did not solve the issue. Previously replaced the Main Board and Inverter Board. There are NO CODES posting. Would the next part to replace be the compressor? When you buy a new compressor does it come with the service port or do you need to purchase separately? What other parts do I need to order? What tools do I need? Can kind of Torch and Flux, Soder, etc do I need?
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Yes, sounds like the compressor is faulty at this point. As long as you have power to the inverter then the compressor must be faulty. You would need a process tube. The compressor usually does not come with one. You will need refrigerant gages, R-134A refrigerant, torches, brazing rods , Flux, a vacuum pump, etc. You could use a oxygen/ acetylene torches with brazing rods or a butane torches with silver solder and flux. I wouldn’t recommend this repair without having training and experience in sealed system repairs.
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Hi Brian. I’m still doing some trouble shooting. I did a oms test on the compressor terminals. I got a reading of 7 on all the different ways of connecting the probes. Is the compressor still good at these numbers or should it be higher? What is the spec of a good compressor? Also Message on the Family Hub Screen says “Temperature in the freezer is abnormally high. Please check if door is opened or hot foods are in the freezer. If the problem has been solved the message will disappear. If the warning continues, please call a Samsung Service Center. The refrigerator is not cooling and warm in side as nothing is happening. Could there be some kind of sensor done bad that shut done the unit? Maybe a Thermostat Sensor? Let me know your thoughts? Jeff
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The ohms of the compressor test good at 7 ohms. The compressor could still be faulty with proper ohm readings. I do not think a sensor would cause this issue, but it is possible. It should also be giving an error code for the sensor failure. I would try and run the compressor test in the service manual if not done so already. Page 101 for forced compressor run. Also there is a flow chart to follow for a compressor not running. Page 111 has trouble shooting for compressor not running. Page 112 for inverter board errors
