whasher works fine on first load, goes through all the cycles and clothes come out as it should, it fails on second load to spin on high speed, it rinses fine, but it wont go through final spin (high spped), so clothes are too wet, no error codes, diagnostic shows no problems, it keeps trying to balance I guess but it wont go through with it and it times out after too many attempts, I`ve replaced the pump, think it has a faulty pump, shocks looks good as well, need help with this customer machine problem, cant keep replacing parts, any idea?
pump replacement, checked shocks, run diagnostic mode and no error found.
- Guest asked 5 years ago
That’s a tough one. Very strange it only happens with the second load. Never heard of that. If it’s just going off balance there would not be a repair for that unless your shocks are bad. Have you seen this actually happen with the second load? If it was me I would scheduled to return at a time where they have already ran their first load and call ahead of time to arrive as a second load is in spin or about to going to spin so I can actually see what is happening. Or when it fails tell them to not touch the unit do not open and leave it as is until you get there. Then put it on a drain and spin and see what happens.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 5 years ago
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Hi , I heard form another tech that the drive motor could cause the unit to be out of balance, the part the controls the balance is attached to the motor and is not sold separately, i dont know if that what the problem is, but the motor it self is very expensive, not sure if customer would wanna pay for it, also if it is not the problem then it would wast of money, i did ask the customer to start a normal cycle before i get there so i can see it happens on second load, what do you think?
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Hello
See the technician manual and diagnostics. I would run diagnostics for any stored error cods. If its happening on the second load it could be a SUDS LOCK condition. Look at section 6-7 in the Job Aid diagnostics.
If too much detergent was used:
Run the unit through a RINSE/SPIN cycle.
Run a NORMAL cycle without adding any detergent.
This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.
1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
2. Is the drain standpipe higher than 9 feet, This can cause pump cavitations resulting in same failure code.
3. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
4. Check wire harness connections to the drain pump, pressure switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
5. Check/clean drain pump filter of foreign objects.
6. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
7. Check drain pump.
8. Check the pressure switch and pressure switch hose.
9. Verify CCU operation by running a Quick Diagnostic Test or any cycle.
- AV Repair Help answered 5 years ago
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I do see that the f25 is not listed. I looked up some info and it appears that error code for your model indicates a tachometer error code. This is the speed sensor or rps sensor that is built into the motor. You did say your readings were off when you tested the motor. It does sound like you do have a faulty motor. Very uncommon. Only seen it a couple of times. Make sure your wire harness between the motor and control is good.
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Hi in fact the connections are all good, I disconnected them, ohm them out and all, I also found that f25 is also a communication error between MCU of the motor to the control board, now the mcu is a lot cheaper than the motor, now I am not sure whether is the mcu or the motor, the f25 code only show up when running a universal diagnostic, wont show on quick diagnostic, is there a reason for it?
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I did see that it could be the MCU also for a communication error but I did not realize this unit had an MCU. I wish the tech sheet listed this error. At this point it could be either the motor or MCU. If the motor windings and tachometer test good then I would go with the MCU. If not replace the motor. We know the motor does work so if it is an issue with the motor if would more than likely have to be an intermittent issue with that tachometer in the motor.
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that is what i am thinking, but either way is an expensive part, even being the mcu, both are electric parts and most of supply store wont take back if it is misdiagnosed, the unit does run every now and then.
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I’m at at whirlpool 5000 model and the spin cycle work in every mode except in real life it will spend high and low speed in manual test mode also it will spin when recalibrating but in spin mode and Spins for one second then stops and starts again and stops I replace the board and the shifter I’ve got a motor on my way back to it now but the motor reads find on my multimeter what could be the problem
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