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Thanks Matt. Have you run into this in the past. The F7 is a Basket Fault code but it mentioned a lot of things in that description. It mentions the shifter, pulleys, capacitor, etc. I’m just surprised it would be the control unit at $200+ according to the Service Poiner.
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If you were able to get the unit to spin in the diagnostic mode and it seemed fine, the basket is free, no noise in spin, then I would suspect the shifter. p # W10913953
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If the capacitor was bad you will get the motor just humming and no basket movement.
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Thanks Brian. The washer spins but during testing, spins and little and then stop and repeats this about 3 times. Nothing in the basket so I don’t think it’s out of balance. What diagnostic test(s) from the Tech Sheet would you recommend running? Maybe I can do that again and get back to you with results.
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I would check for any other error codes. Run the auto test cycle and manual spin. Clear the error codes first to see if you get a new error code.
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Hi Brian. I cleared the fault codes. Afterwards I ran the Auto Test. The could hear the basket fill with water, and agitate (not sure if it was one direction or both since the lid was closed). After that, the water drained and the spin cycle began. I’m not certain if the basket spun or not. I heard it try/grind for about second and stop. It did this 3 times before moving on to the next steps and then was done. But it’s safe to say the basket didn’t just spin smoothly without making any noise. Then I did the tachometer test with me manually spinning the basket with my hand. The faster I spun, the faster the lights moved which I believe is normal. I went in to diagnostic mode after all this and got no fault codes which I thought was odd. I even got out and went back in to diagnostics and did it again but still nothing – only the Sensing light coming on without any other lights for all 4 codes. Thoughts?
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At this point I would run a drain and spin cycle and see if you get any error codes from it. If some cyles are completing and others not the shifter is most likely the issue. See if there is any grinding noise in spin or any oil leaking under the unit.
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Brian, isn’t the auto test cycle the same as the drain and spin cycle or, are you saying just do a drain and spin cycle like we’ve been doing when the clothes are so wet? At this point I’m tempted just to order she shifterand put it in. Other videos I’ve seen seem to point to that part.
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I was saying to run a drain and spin to monitor proper operation and see if it gives an error code. It runs longer than the auto test mode. I’m thinking the shifter at this point.
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I replaced the shifter and that wasn’t it. I haven’t done any laundry yet, but the auto test cycle still sounds the same where the basket starts to run for a second about 3 times. I’m assuming the basket would normally just run. I did a Rinse and Spin and a Drain and Spin and both end up stopping with the Lock light flashing. The only way I can get past it is to unplug the washer. Thoughts?
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I un-canceled the service call I had for Monday. It’s $90 and if I want them to go through with the repair they only charge for the repair (I’m sure it includes the diagnostics but…). With $20 to ApplianceVideo.com and $60 for the part, I’m in it for $80 as is but we need the washer.
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When the washer stops with the lid lock flashing, it is giving an error code. This will be the most recent error code stored in the diagnostics now. If the shifter did not take care of it your basket may not be moving freely. You could have bad bearings or something stuck between the inner basket and outer tub, each of which will cause drag on the basket and cause the error code. Other than that, it could have bad wiring or control board