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So if ice constantly builds up what would be the expected problems, in order of probability? How would I be able to test each of these components? Is there a way to Force defrost the refrigerator to test if the heater actually heats up? How do I check to make sure the problem is in the either the ASM temp sensor, bimetal, or defrost heater; as oppossed to the control board/ Is there a way to ensure proper power is supplied to the electrical plugs where the three components plug into in the back of the refrigerator. Thanks

Hi. If you have water/ ice under your crisper drawers, this is an indication that the unit is defrosting but the drain is clogged. The issue is the drain clogging. There is an update kit for the drain to fix this issue. You will also want to replace the defrost sensor since it can be compromised from being engulfed in ice. The sensor is p# WR23X10582, and the drain kit is p# DA82-01415A. If the back panel was taken off while the drain was still frozen the seals can be compromised and the back panel would need to be replaced too.

I opened the link provide for the service manual. However, it is not for my model. Do you have one for GE model # GFSS6KKXASS

I just removed the bimetal defrost thermostat (WR02X12592) the markings read “60/40”. Am I correct to understand that the device should “Open” (no continuity) at 60 degrees and then “close” at 20 degrees (60-40=20)?

Matt, what do you mean “It looks like a drain issue more than a defrost issue”? when I open the unit up the drain is frozen, once I let it defrost the drain runs clean. Also, what two part numbers were you referring too? Thanks

OK, I just read Brian’s response about which part numbers they recommended. Thanks

I just received the part you recommended for my issue: Samsung DA82-01415A. It contains two new drain hoses and some stick-on padding. Can you advise what does the stick-on padding do to correct the freezing drain issue? I do not understand what its purpose would be. Thanks Eric