All Answers

Hi.
I have attached the service manual for this unit. I did not see any service bulletins for this. If it’s still taking a long time to dry my first guess would have to be air flow. You must have a clogged vent or blower wheel and or housing. This would be the most likely explanation. Especially if they share the same vent since both are taking longer than usual to dry. Does the heat seem to short cycle? Only staying on for a few seconds and shutting off? This would be another indication of an air flow issue. Exhaust temps coming out of the dryer are going to be 120- 150 degrees. If air flow is not the issue then you could have gas coils that are failing. Weak coils will give you proper heat at the beginning of a cycle for a period and then just loose heat all together. The igniter will come on and go off with no flame. I hope this was helpful.

Hello
See the complete troubleshooting & repair manual link attached. The troubleshooting and diagnostics are on on page #10.

Hello
See complete service manual link attached. On page 4-31 are instructions for the removal of the water filter housing.

Hello
See complete service manual link attached and thermistor settings are on page #33.

Hello
The ice maker does have a test mode on page #35 in the service manual link below. You have to be logged in to see the service manual. I would run the ice maker through the test mode. If you replaced the water valve, there is a 90% chance the ice maker is causing your issue. There is a water level adjustment under the cover of the ice maker. See manual for information. Thanks

Hello, customers reporting low or no cool conditions may have one or more potential root causes leading to the condition. You have a dual evaporator system. One in the freezer and one in the refrigerator section. Be sure to troubleshoot the cause of the low or no cool condition, including:
● Evaporator fan motor operation. There have been some cases where the evaporator fan motor is stalling and causing a PF in display and creating cooling issues. If the freezer temperature is fine and the sub-par cooling issue is only an issue in the refrigerator section, you will want to pull the refrigerator section evaporator cover to see if the evaporator fan motor is running. you will need to tape the 2 door switches closed for you to check properly. If the evaporator motor does not run or seems like it is running at a low speed this may be your issue. If there is no frost on the evaporator, or if it is and uneven frost pattern, then you most likely have some type of sealed system issue which is a technically difficult repair which would normally require a skilled sealed system technician and special equipment to correct. In most cases, (if this is the answer), it would not be a cost-effective repair unless under some type of manufacturer’s warranty. Please check the operation of the refrigerator section evaporator motor and frost pattern of the refrigerator section evaporator.

Hello
All of the diagnostic tests start in the service manual from section 2-11 through section 3-16. All of the information is in the service manual. Your symptoms have many possibilities from a sealed system failure to a main control board issue. It may be in your best interest to have a technician come out and diagnose it for you.

Hello
See the technician sheet and diagnostic manual. I would start by trying to put the unit into the diagnostic mode. It sounds like you have a lot going on based on the symptoms you are explaining. The service manual will explain all of the error codes. I have also provided the parts breakdown.

Here is the technician diagnostic sheet. see link below.

Hello
See the service manual link below. I can think of two other possibilities why you are not getting water to the ice maker.
1) If your water inlet tube that supplies water to the ice maker is plugged with ice. That can be caused by your water inlet valve feeding low water pressure to the ice maker causing the tube to freeze up. Now that you have replaced he valve you may have corrected the problem, but the tube is still frozen. You can remove the ice maker and see if it has ice in the tube or shut off the refrigerator for 24 hours with the doors open to defrost all ice from the tube completely.
2) If your tube is not iced up you could have an ice maker that is defective. The ice maker may not be sending power down to the inlet valve. The ice maker normally cycles about every 90 minutes and will open the inlet valve to send water through it for 4-7 seconds.
Hope this helps solve your issue.

Hello, we have attached a step by step replacement video for you.

Hello
See service manual links below. I would start with the mini manual and go through test #1 for all fault codes and test #7 for cold water valve. Did you shut off your main cold water valve and remove the cold water inlet hose from the washer inlet valve, then put it in a bucket to see if you have good water pressure in to the valve? Sometimes your cold water valve that supplies the water to the washer inlet valve can develop calcium and lime deposits preventing proper water pressure in to your washer valve. If all of these items check out it most like the main PBC causing your issue.

Hello,
After checking the wire connections, I would order the Mems PBA and main control board and start with the MEMS board as it will be less expensive. Then return the board you do not need.
1.Check the wire connections.
2. Replace the Mems PBA. The MEMS sensor is basically a vibration sensor to control board that the machine is experiencing and out-of balance condition.
3. Main PBA wire connection Check or PBA’s silver nano part
malfunction. Replace if necessary
The reference to the PBA’s silver nano part malfunction, this information is in reference to the main control board.

Hello
See service manual link below. Go to section 5-1 on page #79 in the service manual link for troubleshooting guide diagnostics.

Hello
See the service manual links. If the unit is freezing every few months, you will need to clear the line with high pressure Co2 or replace the drain line trap assembly. The freezing issue could be a number of possibilities. I would start by running the unit through the diagnostics mode in the service manual link attached. It could be a fresh food thermistor that is defective or possibly a start of a sealed system issue.

Hello
See service manual link below. I would start with going to page #42 in the service manual to the control board testing procedures. Run through the different diagnostics tests. If all of the tests check out and you are getting proper power into the unit, including testing for proper polarity and ground at the wall outlet. I would then replace the control board.

See manual link for gas range.

Hello
See service manual attached. There are no service bulletin’s listed for this model.

See service manual.

Hello
Can you explain the exact error code you are getting on the display.